It has been a hot and humid summer in the South of the France. To beat the heat, this past weekend we went for a much overdue trip to the Southern Alps to see Janny’s brother and Janny’s nice niece originally from Nice. We had a great and cool time. We drove east to Nice and then north up and up away from the Sea.

One of my favourite drives in Canada is the famed “Sea to Sky” highway from Vancouver to Whistler. It is spectacular with the views of mountains and the Pacific Ocean. As to the “sky” part, it tops out at about 700 metres above sea level.

This drive north of Nice was as spectacular in a different way, and at times as terrifying. The road cuts through or hangs tight to gorge walls as rivers below flow down to the Sea. And up and up we climbed. For those not familiar, some perspective, this southern alps sea to sky highway from Nice goes up and over Col de la Bonette which sits at about 2800 metres above sea level, the highest mountain pass in all of Europe.

Off the spine of this road are roads travelling perpendicular up to the “ski stations” such as Roubion, Isola 2000, and Auron. Each of these roads are massively long with steep grades that on numerous occasions have been part of Tour de France stages. Nasty things they are. The traditional TDF climb up Col de Coulliole past Roubion, as an example, is maybe a 16km affair from the valley town of Saint-Sauveur-sur-Tinee climbing almost 1,200 metres.

We stayed at a B&B in Roubion that I wish I could say was at least “clean but shmorgy” but Janny refused to use the shower completely. But I won the coin toss and claimed the top bunk! It was so nice though to be cool at night with morning crispness in the air. And quiet, like I don’t know what.

Saturday, I did get out for a little ride (more on that another time) and we then went thankfully by car with Janny’s brother up to Col de la Bonette. I am just glad he did the driving. It was quite unworldly at the top and we shared the pass with cars and motorcycles and yes, bikes. Chapeau to them!

Afterward, we visited Janny’s niece who together with her partner run an on-piste chalet style restaurant at Auron. I have heard about this for some time and was very happy to see it in the flesh. It was the end of the summer bike and hike season and families were enjoying themselves with food and drink in the sun. In a matter of months, this same area will be covered in snow to welcome the hoards of skiers and bikers.

The sea is very special and so to in a very different way are mountains. It is an experience for the senses. It is the smell, the silence, the coolness on your skin. We will be back for sure, and for next time, longer.

About Jay C. Kellerman

Jay C. Kellerman is a Toronto based lawyer who is blessed to be able to spend time in France as a Canadian.

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